When we first started dreaming about a round-the-world adventure, Ciudad de Mexico was the first destination on the itinerary. We’d both spent time in Mexico before, both visited D.F., both longed for a return. Our key motivation was a shared love of Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera, Mexico’s two greatest artists, with wonderful charisma, attitude and style (more on our search forEl Elephante y La Paloma here).
At the Casa Azul, searching for Frida y Diego
We spent a few nights in supposedly hip & happening Condesa (it isn’t really), then moved into the much more shabby Centro Historico to stay in one of the biggest, highest ceilinged rooms of our life at the wonderfully creaking old Hotel Isabel, a couple of blocks from the Zocalo.
Hotel Isabel: the glass floor is the roof of the lobby. This roofed atrium goes up another few stories
Every morning we could, we began our day with delicious tropical fruit, served sliced up in a bag with chilli, salt and lashings of lime.
Kapow! Desayuno Mexico-stylee
As well as all the fabulous art and falling down buildings we particularly digged the stores around the Zocalo, where whole blocks remain devoted to the same products, leather one street, stationary another, shoes round the corner, then hardware…
Boots eat your heart out: this place is the best stocked chemist EVER!
Sadly, Mexico wasn’t everything we’d hoped for. The appallingly bloody Guerra las Drugas appears to be taking its toll on the collective mindset and the country seemed a lot less appealing than on our previous visits.
There is one English newspaper (the imaginatively title The News) but it’s almost impossible to find on the news-stands, and anyway is mostly recycled wire copy so they don’t have a need for many journalists. The city didn’t feel too safe at night, and there are very few expats beyond boisterous bankers making idiots of themselves in the (otherwise marvellous) mariachi bars.
Still, Mexico does have wonderful tacos, wonderful cerveza, wonderful musica and the most incredible colours…
Maravillosos colores: don't you wish your street looked like this?